The Practice Instrument
Electronic keyboards: A “real” piano is preferable to an electronic keyboard. All students who progress beyond the first few
months are expected to upgrade to an acoustic piano or, less preferably, a keyboard with 88 weighted keys and pedals. If you
are unable or unwilling to make an investment in at least a decent digital piano, it may be wise to reconsider the value of piano
lessons at this time. Keep in mind that your investment in an instrument will in most cases pale in comparison to your
investment in piano lessons!
The most important feature to look for is “weighted keys,” which are essential to the development of finger-working muscles
and a technique of controlled attack that will work on all instruments. Weighted keys are actually not weighted, but spring-
loaded so that they feel “heavy” as on a real piano. A full-size keyboard is 88 keys; often consumers will try to save money
and/or space by getting a keyboard with 76 or 61 keys instead. Any product with less than 61 keys is either a toy or
something for a DJ. The biggest problem with less-than-full-size keyboards is not really the smaller size (beginners rarely use
the highest and lowest notes) but the lack of good-quality weighted keys. As for the space difference, an 88 key instrument
will be 12 to 14 inches wider than a 61 key instrument. Unless you plan on storing the keyboard under a couch or on a shelf in
a closet, the space question is more one of visual aesthetics than one of physical logistics. Touch sensitivity, which means that
the keyboard is sensitive to the force with which the keys are struck (as on an acoustic instrument) became a standard feature
about fifteen years ago. Check to be sure, though—a keyboard is worthless without it! Recording capability is very useful but
not absolutely essential; other common electronic keyboard features such as memory or expansion cards, sound banks, and the
like can be fun but are unnecessary for basic musical and technical development.
Acoustic pianos: An electronic keyboard is, at best, a poor substitute for a real piano. The digital version still cannot produce
a true piano sound—and more importantly, cannot produce the touch and response of an acoustic instrument. The range of
expression possible on a decent acoustic instrument is infinitely greater than even the best digital keyboard. With the wide
range of pianos and price ranges, often a decent used vertical (or “upright”) piano can be purchased for not much more than a
decent 88-key digital keyboard. Carefully compare digital and acoustic instruments in your price range: you’ll likely find you
can get a quality acoustic instrument for a price you can afford. A worn old upright—if in good condition—is far preferable to
a new digital keyboard. And don’t worry about the size of the instrument: it might look bigger, but a vertical piano takes up
exactly the same amount of floor space as a full-size digital keyboard.
Vertical pianos are categorized by size: Spinets (36”), Consoles (41”), Studios (45”), and Uprights (sometimes called
“professional” or “full-sized”; 50”). Measurements are approximate and refer to the height of the piano from floor to top.
Spinets should in most cases be avoided. For decades this design was very popular, primarily due to its low cost. Very few
have been made since 1990 as the low-cost segment of the market has shifted to digital keyboards, for good reason. If you’re
thinking of getting a spinet, the price should be pretty close to free for you to even consider it. Consoles are an improvement
over spinets but still aren't generally recommended if you have other options. As for the difference between studios and
uprights: all things being equal, taller is better. But any of these types (even spinets), new or used, are suitable for most
students if the instrument is well-made and in good condition.
A good grand piano over 5’9” is a major improvement over an upright. The cost of a decent grand is more than that of a
comparable upright, but it’s perhaps not much as some people imagine. If you have the space and the means for a grand
piano, by all means, rest assured that a good grand will last 100 years, will not loose value to the same extent that ordinary
consumer products do, and will be superior in touch, reliability, and tone quality to most uprights. On the other hand, if space
or budget constraints send you looking for smaller grands (anything under 5’4”), consider a full-size or studio upright. Small
grands are best used as furniture! The term “baby grand” is not a reliable indicator of a piano’s size; find out a piano’s true
size by measuring the length from end to end.
Educate yourself: All manufacturers are not created equal, and if you’re in a position to invest in a good acoustic piano, you’ll
be spending at least $1200, perhaps much more. For an exhaustive discussion of all aspects of piano buying, I recommend
The Piano Book by Larry Fine. Most people would not just go to a used car dealer without doing some research on the
products offered, and buying a piano is not different.
Retail gimmicks: If you’re buying anything with 88 keys, go to a dedicated piano dealer. Skip the mass retailers (Best Buy,
Costco). Most manufacturers distribute their instruments exclusively through a single retailer in a given geographic area. This
means that prices are higher than they might otherwise be, and your options for shopping around are severely restricted—at
least for new instruments. As with buying a car, check prices in the classifieds, with out-of-town dealers, or on the internet.
Most dealers list prices that are rather high, with the expectation that they will be bargained down somewhat. Be aware that
the potential for negotiation varies not only from dealer to dealer, but from brand to brand. If the dealer won’t negotiate and/or
their prices are not close to what you’re expecting, find another dealer, or consider a different brand.
Don’t be tempted by an offer of 100% trade-up value. If you are buying a quality acoustic piano (as you should be!), it is
highly unlikely that you will ever attempt to use trade-up credits; even if you do use them, they will not save you much money
(a good piano will retain much of its value, and dealers looking to make a sale are apt to be generous with the trade-in
allowance, regardless of where you purchased the instrument).
Many dealers offer rent-to-own programs. Renting-to-own a piano is like renting anything else: you will end up paying more
than buying outright, but you’ll have the flexibility of backing out should your needs change.
With a few exceptions (most notably Steinway), “American” brands don’t mean anything anymore. Many Japanese pianos are
now made in the U.S.; most “American”-sounding brand names come from Korea or China. Some European-sounding names
actually come from Europe, and others come from Asia.
“University” piano sales are just another sales trick. You may or may not find a good deal. You should also be aware that
universities don’t always take care of their instruments as well as you might think; quality varies. The pressure to buy is higher
than at a regular retail store. Go and look, but be wary.
If you’re buying from a dealer or technician, your piano should come with a one-year full warranty at the very least, regardless
of whether it is new or used. Decline any deals that do not include this minimum level of protection.
Buy used: The used market is far more competitive than the new market; consider good-condition used instruments whenever
possible. You can usually get a much better deal buying a piano from a private individual than you can from a dealer; such
transactions are also far more risky for you, the buyer. It is usually unwise to buy from a private individual without having a
trusted friend with some keyboard skills test out the piano first—and if you’re spending more than $1000, protect yourself and
hire an experienced technician to examine the instrument before you commit. Expect to pay $75-$150 for this service; it’s
money well spent. A piano is an investment for a lifetime—good luck!
So how much is this going to cost? It’s almost impossible to give good pricing advice, but I’ll try to do so anyway. Any
prices here concern my personal experience with the Washington, DC-area market in the 2005-2010 time range. The price
ranges on the market are truly staggering and range from free to well over $100,000!
Acoustic instruments from dealers: Used upright pianos of any quality go for $2000 - $5000. Used grand pianos start at
around $6000—but you can easily spend $100,000 on a rebuilt grand piano if you are so inclined. New pianos of any quality
start at $5000 for uprights and $11,000 for grands. You can get a new piano for less, but in general, you shouldn’t. Of
course there are exceptions—but it’s prudent to skeptical of any new instrument going for close to or less than these
estimates. If your budget sends you looking for cheaper new instruments, consider looking at used pianos. Usually you can
get a better instrument in the used market. 30 years old is only middle-aged for a piano.
Acoustic instruments from private sellers: You can usually get a used acoustic piano from a private seller for about ½ the
dealer prices listed above. Usually, you’ll have to pay for moving and tuning.
Digital keyboards: The cheapest full-size digital keyboards start around $700; quality increases significantly when you pass
the $1300 mark. The law of diminishing returns kicks in around $1700 and anything over $2500 is way more keyboard than
you need, at least for educational purposes. Buying a used keyboard from a private seller is less risky than buying an acoustic
instrument from an individual because it’s easier for you, the consumer, to test it out. If all keys work and seem to be of even
weight (that is, you don’t find any heavy or sticky keys) and the speakers produce a good sound without distortion or static,
you’re probably ok. You can usually expect to pay between 1/3 and 2/3 of the cost of a new keyboard depending on the age
of the instrument. Used prices at dealers will be higher. Don’t bother with any used digital instrument over 15 years old.
months are expected to upgrade to an acoustic piano or, less preferably, a keyboard with 88 weighted keys and pedals. If you
are unable or unwilling to make an investment in at least a decent digital piano, it may be wise to reconsider the value of piano
lessons at this time. Keep in mind that your investment in an instrument will in most cases pale in comparison to your
investment in piano lessons!
The most important feature to look for is “weighted keys,” which are essential to the development of finger-working muscles
and a technique of controlled attack that will work on all instruments. Weighted keys are actually not weighted, but spring-
loaded so that they feel “heavy” as on a real piano. A full-size keyboard is 88 keys; often consumers will try to save money
and/or space by getting a keyboard with 76 or 61 keys instead. Any product with less than 61 keys is either a toy or
something for a DJ. The biggest problem with less-than-full-size keyboards is not really the smaller size (beginners rarely use
the highest and lowest notes) but the lack of good-quality weighted keys. As for the space difference, an 88 key instrument
will be 12 to 14 inches wider than a 61 key instrument. Unless you plan on storing the keyboard under a couch or on a shelf in
a closet, the space question is more one of visual aesthetics than one of physical logistics. Touch sensitivity, which means that
the keyboard is sensitive to the force with which the keys are struck (as on an acoustic instrument) became a standard feature
about fifteen years ago. Check to be sure, though—a keyboard is worthless without it! Recording capability is very useful but
not absolutely essential; other common electronic keyboard features such as memory or expansion cards, sound banks, and the
like can be fun but are unnecessary for basic musical and technical development.
Acoustic pianos: An electronic keyboard is, at best, a poor substitute for a real piano. The digital version still cannot produce
a true piano sound—and more importantly, cannot produce the touch and response of an acoustic instrument. The range of
expression possible on a decent acoustic instrument is infinitely greater than even the best digital keyboard. With the wide
range of pianos and price ranges, often a decent used vertical (or “upright”) piano can be purchased for not much more than a
decent 88-key digital keyboard. Carefully compare digital and acoustic instruments in your price range: you’ll likely find you
can get a quality acoustic instrument for a price you can afford. A worn old upright—if in good condition—is far preferable to
a new digital keyboard. And don’t worry about the size of the instrument: it might look bigger, but a vertical piano takes up
exactly the same amount of floor space as a full-size digital keyboard.
Vertical pianos are categorized by size: Spinets (36”), Consoles (41”), Studios (45”), and Uprights (sometimes called
“professional” or “full-sized”; 50”). Measurements are approximate and refer to the height of the piano from floor to top.
Spinets should in most cases be avoided. For decades this design was very popular, primarily due to its low cost. Very few
have been made since 1990 as the low-cost segment of the market has shifted to digital keyboards, for good reason. If you’re
thinking of getting a spinet, the price should be pretty close to free for you to even consider it. Consoles are an improvement
over spinets but still aren't generally recommended if you have other options. As for the difference between studios and
uprights: all things being equal, taller is better. But any of these types (even spinets), new or used, are suitable for most
students if the instrument is well-made and in good condition.
A good grand piano over 5’9” is a major improvement over an upright. The cost of a decent grand is more than that of a
comparable upright, but it’s perhaps not much as some people imagine. If you have the space and the means for a grand
piano, by all means, rest assured that a good grand will last 100 years, will not loose value to the same extent that ordinary
consumer products do, and will be superior in touch, reliability, and tone quality to most uprights. On the other hand, if space
or budget constraints send you looking for smaller grands (anything under 5’4”), consider a full-size or studio upright. Small
grands are best used as furniture! The term “baby grand” is not a reliable indicator of a piano’s size; find out a piano’s true
size by measuring the length from end to end.
Educate yourself: All manufacturers are not created equal, and if you’re in a position to invest in a good acoustic piano, you’ll
be spending at least $1200, perhaps much more. For an exhaustive discussion of all aspects of piano buying, I recommend
The Piano Book by Larry Fine. Most people would not just go to a used car dealer without doing some research on the
products offered, and buying a piano is not different.
Retail gimmicks: If you’re buying anything with 88 keys, go to a dedicated piano dealer. Skip the mass retailers (Best Buy,
Costco). Most manufacturers distribute their instruments exclusively through a single retailer in a given geographic area. This
means that prices are higher than they might otherwise be, and your options for shopping around are severely restricted—at
least for new instruments. As with buying a car, check prices in the classifieds, with out-of-town dealers, or on the internet.
Most dealers list prices that are rather high, with the expectation that they will be bargained down somewhat. Be aware that
the potential for negotiation varies not only from dealer to dealer, but from brand to brand. If the dealer won’t negotiate and/or
their prices are not close to what you’re expecting, find another dealer, or consider a different brand.
Don’t be tempted by an offer of 100% trade-up value. If you are buying a quality acoustic piano (as you should be!), it is
highly unlikely that you will ever attempt to use trade-up credits; even if you do use them, they will not save you much money
(a good piano will retain much of its value, and dealers looking to make a sale are apt to be generous with the trade-in
allowance, regardless of where you purchased the instrument).
Many dealers offer rent-to-own programs. Renting-to-own a piano is like renting anything else: you will end up paying more
than buying outright, but you’ll have the flexibility of backing out should your needs change.
With a few exceptions (most notably Steinway), “American” brands don’t mean anything anymore. Many Japanese pianos are
now made in the U.S.; most “American”-sounding brand names come from Korea or China. Some European-sounding names
actually come from Europe, and others come from Asia.
“University” piano sales are just another sales trick. You may or may not find a good deal. You should also be aware that
universities don’t always take care of their instruments as well as you might think; quality varies. The pressure to buy is higher
than at a regular retail store. Go and look, but be wary.
If you’re buying from a dealer or technician, your piano should come with a one-year full warranty at the very least, regardless
of whether it is new or used. Decline any deals that do not include this minimum level of protection.
Buy used: The used market is far more competitive than the new market; consider good-condition used instruments whenever
possible. You can usually get a much better deal buying a piano from a private individual than you can from a dealer; such
transactions are also far more risky for you, the buyer. It is usually unwise to buy from a private individual without having a
trusted friend with some keyboard skills test out the piano first—and if you’re spending more than $1000, protect yourself and
hire an experienced technician to examine the instrument before you commit. Expect to pay $75-$150 for this service; it’s
money well spent. A piano is an investment for a lifetime—good luck!
So how much is this going to cost? It’s almost impossible to give good pricing advice, but I’ll try to do so anyway. Any
prices here concern my personal experience with the Washington, DC-area market in the 2005-2010 time range. The price
ranges on the market are truly staggering and range from free to well over $100,000!
Acoustic instruments from dealers: Used upright pianos of any quality go for $2000 - $5000. Used grand pianos start at
around $6000—but you can easily spend $100,000 on a rebuilt grand piano if you are so inclined. New pianos of any quality
start at $5000 for uprights and $11,000 for grands. You can get a new piano for less, but in general, you shouldn’t. Of
course there are exceptions—but it’s prudent to skeptical of any new instrument going for close to or less than these
estimates. If your budget sends you looking for cheaper new instruments, consider looking at used pianos. Usually you can
get a better instrument in the used market. 30 years old is only middle-aged for a piano.
Acoustic instruments from private sellers: You can usually get a used acoustic piano from a private seller for about ½ the
dealer prices listed above. Usually, you’ll have to pay for moving and tuning.
Digital keyboards: The cheapest full-size digital keyboards start around $700; quality increases significantly when you pass
the $1300 mark. The law of diminishing returns kicks in around $1700 and anything over $2500 is way more keyboard than
you need, at least for educational purposes. Buying a used keyboard from a private seller is less risky than buying an acoustic
instrument from an individual because it’s easier for you, the consumer, to test it out. If all keys work and seem to be of even
weight (that is, you don’t find any heavy or sticky keys) and the speakers produce a good sound without distortion or static,
you’re probably ok. You can usually expect to pay between 1/3 and 2/3 of the cost of a new keyboard depending on the age
of the instrument. Used prices at dealers will be higher. Don’t bother with any used digital instrument over 15 years old.
Piano Studio of Andrew Horowitz
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Copyright 2005, 2010 by Andrew Horowitz