The Practice Instrument
Electronic keyboards: A “real” piano is preferable to an electronic keyboard. All students who progress beyond the first few
months are expected to upgrade to an acoustic piano or, less preferably, a keyboard with 88 touch-sensitive, weighted keys,
and pedals. If you are unable or unwilling to make an investment in at least a decent digital piano, it may be wise to reconsider
the value of piano lessons at this time.
At a minimum, an electronic keyboard should have 61 full-size keys. Beyond this most basic of requirements, the more
important features to look for in a digital piano are 88 keys, touch sensitivity, “weighted” keys, and a quality piano sound. A
full size keyboard is 88 keys; often consumers will try to save money and/or space by getting a keyboard with 76, 61, or some
other number instead. While there is a significant price difference between 61 keys and 88 keys, a 61 key keyboard is simply
not suitable for serious music study beyond the primary level, and is not ideal even then. A 76+/- key instrument will
theoretically be suitable for the elementary levels, but an upgrade will still be necessary relatively early on. As for the space
difference, 88 keys will be slightly over 4 feet wide; 61 keys will be not less than 3 feet in width. Unless you plan on storing
the keyboard under a couch or on a shelf in a closet, the space question is more one of visual aesthetics than one of physical
logistics. Touch sensitivity, which means that the keyboard is sensitive to the force with which the keys are struck (as on an
acoustic instrument), should be standard on all good instruments, regardless of size. Check to be sure, though! Weighted
keys are actually not weighted, but spring loaded so that they feel “heavy” as on a real piano. Weighted keys are important to
the development of finger-working muscles and a technique of controlled attack that will work on all instruments. Other
common electronic keyboard features such as disk or CD drives, large sound banks, recording capability and the like are fun
but unnecessary!
Acoustic pianos: An electronic keyboard is, at best, a poor substitute for a real piano. The range of expression possible on a
decent acoustic instrument is infinitely greater than even the best digital keyboard; with the wide range of pianos and price
ranges, often a decent upright (or “vertical”) piano can be purchased for not much more than a decent 88 key digital
keyboard. There are high-end keyboards that are priced above many upright pianos; a good number of low-end pianos are
priced lower than many keyboards. Don’t decide not to buy a piano because it’s not affordable without carefully comparing
digital and acoustic instruments in your price range. A worn, if serviceable, used upright is far preferable to a shiny new digital
keyboard.
The main types of upright pianos available are Spinets, Consoles, Studios, and Professionals; these terms refer to the length of
the strings, and hence the height of the piano. Spinets are the smallest, and professional uprights are the largest. As a general
rule, the bigger (taller) the piano is, the better the sound. It is also typically the case that a bigger upright will be better made
than a smaller spinet and will have a more reliable action (taller uprights usually require fewer moving parts). A good grand
piano over 5’4” is a major improvement over an upright, and the cost of a decent grand is also much more than that of a
comparable upright. If you have the space and the money for a grand piano, by all means, rest assured that a good grand will
last 100 years, will not loose value to the same extent that ordinary consumer products do, and will be far superior in touch,
reliability, and tone quality to most uprights. On the other hand, if space or budget constraints send you looking for smaller
grands (anything under 5 feet; and even 5 feet is a bit on the small side), consider a professional/studio upright. Tiny grands
are best used as furniture!
All manufacturers are not created equal, and if you’re in a position to invest in a good piano, you’ll be spending at least $1200,
perhaps much more. A good resource, with much information on brands, reliability, etc, is The Piano Book, by Larry Fine. It’
s kind of like a used car reference text, but for pianos. Most people would not just go to a used car dealer without doing some
research on what brands are likely to meet their needs and last a good long time, and buying a piano is no different.
Retail gimmicks: If you’re buying anything with 88 keys, go to a piano dedicated piano dealer. Skip the mass retailers
(Circuit City, Cosco).
Most manufacturers distribute their instruments exclusively through a single retailer in a given geographic area. This means
that prices are much higher than they might otherwise be. If it seems like you’ve found a great bargain on any instrument by a
reputable manufacturer, go home and do some research before you buy! Check prices with out-of-town dealers or on the
internet. Most dealers list prices that are rather high, with the expectation that they will be bargained down somewhat. Be
aware that the potential for negotiation varies not only from dealer to dealer, but from brand to brand. (For example, you’re
not likely to see much price flexibility with a new Steinway; however, the same dealer may be willing to bargain significantly
with other brands in their inventory.) As with buying a car, read the classifieds and look up prices online to get an idea of what
you should be paying, and then go to a dealer expecting to pay that price. If the dealer won’t negotiate and their prices are not
close to what you’re expecting, find another dealer!
Don’t be tempted by an offer of 100% trade-up value. If you are buying a quality acoustic piano, (as you should be!), it is
highly unlikely that you will ever attempt to use trade-up credits; even if you do use them, they will not save you much money
(a good piano will retain much of its value, and dealers looking to make a sale are apt to be generous with the trade-in
allowance, regardless of where you purchased the instrument). Of course, it’s nice to be able to apply your purchase price to
an upgraded instrument at a later date, just not nice enough in and of itself to patronize a particular retailer!
Many dealers offer rent-to-own programs. Renting-to-own a piano is like renting anything else: you will end up paying more
than buying outright, but you’ll have the flexibility of backing out should your needs change. If you’re considering rent-to-
own, keep in mind that the vast majority of renters end up buying anyway (at the end of their leases).
The pianos offered at “University” piano sales have been played hard every day, eight or more hours a day, all year long.
Quality varies. Go and look, but be wary. The same goes for classified ads in the paper: a good way to get a feel for the
market, but risky! It is usually unwise to buy from a private individual without having a trusted tuner or friend with some
keyboard skills test out the piano first.
Buy used: The used market is far more competitive than the new market; consider good-condition used instruments
whenever possible, especially with acoustic pianos. Always try to negotiate the price of a used instrument, whether the seller
is a retailer, “university,” or individual. Good luck!
months are expected to upgrade to an acoustic piano or, less preferably, a keyboard with 88 touch-sensitive, weighted keys,
and pedals. If you are unable or unwilling to make an investment in at least a decent digital piano, it may be wise to reconsider
the value of piano lessons at this time.
At a minimum, an electronic keyboard should have 61 full-size keys. Beyond this most basic of requirements, the more
important features to look for in a digital piano are 88 keys, touch sensitivity, “weighted” keys, and a quality piano sound. A
full size keyboard is 88 keys; often consumers will try to save money and/or space by getting a keyboard with 76, 61, or some
other number instead. While there is a significant price difference between 61 keys and 88 keys, a 61 key keyboard is simply
not suitable for serious music study beyond the primary level, and is not ideal even then. A 76+/- key instrument will
theoretically be suitable for the elementary levels, but an upgrade will still be necessary relatively early on. As for the space
difference, 88 keys will be slightly over 4 feet wide; 61 keys will be not less than 3 feet in width. Unless you plan on storing
the keyboard under a couch or on a shelf in a closet, the space question is more one of visual aesthetics than one of physical
logistics. Touch sensitivity, which means that the keyboard is sensitive to the force with which the keys are struck (as on an
acoustic instrument), should be standard on all good instruments, regardless of size. Check to be sure, though! Weighted
keys are actually not weighted, but spring loaded so that they feel “heavy” as on a real piano. Weighted keys are important to
the development of finger-working muscles and a technique of controlled attack that will work on all instruments. Other
common electronic keyboard features such as disk or CD drives, large sound banks, recording capability and the like are fun
but unnecessary!
Acoustic pianos: An electronic keyboard is, at best, a poor substitute for a real piano. The range of expression possible on a
decent acoustic instrument is infinitely greater than even the best digital keyboard; with the wide range of pianos and price
ranges, often a decent upright (or “vertical”) piano can be purchased for not much more than a decent 88 key digital
keyboard. There are high-end keyboards that are priced above many upright pianos; a good number of low-end pianos are
priced lower than many keyboards. Don’t decide not to buy a piano because it’s not affordable without carefully comparing
digital and acoustic instruments in your price range. A worn, if serviceable, used upright is far preferable to a shiny new digital
keyboard.
The main types of upright pianos available are Spinets, Consoles, Studios, and Professionals; these terms refer to the length of
the strings, and hence the height of the piano. Spinets are the smallest, and professional uprights are the largest. As a general
rule, the bigger (taller) the piano is, the better the sound. It is also typically the case that a bigger upright will be better made
than a smaller spinet and will have a more reliable action (taller uprights usually require fewer moving parts). A good grand
piano over 5’4” is a major improvement over an upright, and the cost of a decent grand is also much more than that of a
comparable upright. If you have the space and the money for a grand piano, by all means, rest assured that a good grand will
last 100 years, will not loose value to the same extent that ordinary consumer products do, and will be far superior in touch,
reliability, and tone quality to most uprights. On the other hand, if space or budget constraints send you looking for smaller
grands (anything under 5 feet; and even 5 feet is a bit on the small side), consider a professional/studio upright. Tiny grands
are best used as furniture!
All manufacturers are not created equal, and if you’re in a position to invest in a good piano, you’ll be spending at least $1200,
perhaps much more. A good resource, with much information on brands, reliability, etc, is The Piano Book, by Larry Fine. It’
s kind of like a used car reference text, but for pianos. Most people would not just go to a used car dealer without doing some
research on what brands are likely to meet their needs and last a good long time, and buying a piano is no different.
Retail gimmicks: If you’re buying anything with 88 keys, go to a piano dedicated piano dealer. Skip the mass retailers
(Circuit City, Cosco).
Most manufacturers distribute their instruments exclusively through a single retailer in a given geographic area. This means
that prices are much higher than they might otherwise be. If it seems like you’ve found a great bargain on any instrument by a
reputable manufacturer, go home and do some research before you buy! Check prices with out-of-town dealers or on the
internet. Most dealers list prices that are rather high, with the expectation that they will be bargained down somewhat. Be
aware that the potential for negotiation varies not only from dealer to dealer, but from brand to brand. (For example, you’re
not likely to see much price flexibility with a new Steinway; however, the same dealer may be willing to bargain significantly
with other brands in their inventory.) As with buying a car, read the classifieds and look up prices online to get an idea of what
you should be paying, and then go to a dealer expecting to pay that price. If the dealer won’t negotiate and their prices are not
close to what you’re expecting, find another dealer!
Don’t be tempted by an offer of 100% trade-up value. If you are buying a quality acoustic piano, (as you should be!), it is
highly unlikely that you will ever attempt to use trade-up credits; even if you do use them, they will not save you much money
(a good piano will retain much of its value, and dealers looking to make a sale are apt to be generous with the trade-in
allowance, regardless of where you purchased the instrument). Of course, it’s nice to be able to apply your purchase price to
an upgraded instrument at a later date, just not nice enough in and of itself to patronize a particular retailer!
Many dealers offer rent-to-own programs. Renting-to-own a piano is like renting anything else: you will end up paying more
than buying outright, but you’ll have the flexibility of backing out should your needs change. If you’re considering rent-to-
own, keep in mind that the vast majority of renters end up buying anyway (at the end of their leases).
The pianos offered at “University” piano sales have been played hard every day, eight or more hours a day, all year long.
Quality varies. Go and look, but be wary. The same goes for classified ads in the paper: a good way to get a feel for the
market, but risky! It is usually unwise to buy from a private individual without having a trusted tuner or friend with some
keyboard skills test out the piano first.
Buy used: The used market is far more competitive than the new market; consider good-condition used instruments
whenever possible, especially with acoustic pianos. Always try to negotiate the price of a used instrument, whether the seller
is a retailer, “university,” or individual. Good luck!
Piano Studio of Andrew Horowitz
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Copyright 2005 by Andrew Horowitz